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Now open in Singapore: French label Polene is here, but are its viral bags still worth it?

Discover Polene's rise as a luxury handbag brand blending French design, Spanish craftsmanship, and sustainable growth with its first Singapore boutique. Read more at straitstimes.com.

The Straits TimesAmanda Chai查看原文 ↗
法国品牌 Polene 现已登陆新加坡,但它爆款包包现在还值得购买吗?

Polene's Singapore boutique in The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands. The family-owned brand has had a meteoric rise since its founding in Paris in 2016.

Published Sep 03, 2026, 09:05 AM

Updated Sep 03, 2026, 01:35 PM

SINGAPORE – It seems like a lifetime ago now that Polene was a secret on the internet.

The Paris-born luxury handbag label was once exclusively worn by French women drawn by national pride and a desire for novel, sculptural shapes. Though it opened its first store in the Bastille area of Paris in 2016, the year it launched, it was a rare occurrence to find anyone toting a Polene bag outside France.

If you spotted one in Singapore, you probably made a mental note that it was a nice bag and moved on.

Nowadays, it is a different story. The pandemic-era trend of “quiet luxury” fuelled interest in alternative labels and quality leather bags with “under $500” price tags – surfacing Polene, with its poetic visual campaigns, as a front runner.

TikTok spread the word like wildfire, Polene’s number of boutiques around the world more than doubled, and it has become a household name holding its own alongside luxury houses with 10 times the history.

Singaporeans have fallen for it too. The brand’s best-selling Cyme totes – that boat-shaped, work-appropriate carry-al l with sides that can be tucked in, changing the shape of the bag – fill the streets and MRT cabins here, inspiring dupes from local and international competitors alike.

Likely, more will join them, now that Polene has opened its first Singapore store in The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands on Aug 1.

Chief executive Antoine Mothay still finds it hard to believe that the family-owned brand has achieved such renown in just a decade.

In an exclusive e-mail interview with The Straits Times, he says: “We certainly hoped people would connect with Polene, but we could not have anticipated the international resonance it has today. We are very grateful for it.”

Polene Cyme in Textured Root (left) and Polene Cyme Cognac. PHOTOS: POLENE

Polene Cyme in Textured Root (left) and Polene Cyme Cognac.

Singapore is the latest step in Polene’s aggressive Asia expansion, which began with a store in Tokyo in 2023. Shortly after came standalone stores in Seoul in 2024 and Beijing in end-2025, then department stores in Osaka and Tokyo in mid-2026.

“We could already see a strong connection with Polene in Singapore through our digital activity long before having a physical presence here,” says Mothay.

“But we were also genuinely drawn to the city itself,” he adds, noting that Singapore is “at a historical crossroads between East and West, shaped by trade and maritime heritage” and possessing a strong contemporary architectural identity.

“That relationship between heritage and modernity felt particularly relevant to the way we think about our boutiques.”

Good leather is central to the business and it makes up a big part of store design across Polene’s boutiques, though no two are alike.

Polene designed Singapore’s with a nod to its maritime heritage and fishing village narrative. Lightweight fishing huts inspired the suspended leather panels that form a canopy across the boutique’s ceiling. Hand-woven in full-grain leather, each panel took nearly three hours of work.

Polene’s Singapore boutique features suspended leather panels inspired by fishing huts and has an exclusive Craft At Work – A Puzzle Of Leather machine installation. PHOTOS: POLENE

Polene’s Singapore boutique features suspended leather panels inspired by fishing huts and has an exclusive Craft At Work – A Puzzle Of Leather machine installation.

An installation titled Craft At Work – A Puzzle Of Leather gives a peek into the first step in making a bag, where a machine custom-developed for the boutique recreates the cutting of 36 different leather pieces that make up the brand’s Mokki bag.

French roots, Spanish craft

Polene was established in 2016 by Antoine and his siblings Elsa and Mathieu Mothay, great-grandchildren of the founders behind Normandy sailor stripes apparel label Saint James.

The aim then was to build a maison at the intersection of artistic rigour and wearable functionality – contemporary yet enduring, with sculptural silhouettes, subtle details and very little visible branding, says Antoine Mothay, 40. “Our vision was never about fleeting trends. It was about creating a visual language, where creativity meets understated elegance, exceptional craftsmanship and leatherwork.”

He was first inspired after an open house at an Hermes workshop in Madrid.

Things fell into place upon a visit to Ubrique, the southern Spanish town known for its leatherwork, where heritage luxury house Loewe also makes much of its leather goods.

It is a small town tucked into the mountains, but within its workshops, you will find one of the highest concentrations of leather artisanship in the world, Mothay says. “It is not a place you arrive at by accident. It is a place you are drawn to if you truly care about how a bag is born.”

The Spanish town of Ubrique, where Polene manufactures its bags. PHOTO: POLENE

The Spanish town of Ubrique, where Polene manufactures its bags.

He travelled through different manufacturing regions in Europe before eventually settling in Ubrique for a year.

There, he was struck by the depth of knowledge that had been passed down through generations. The leather goods industry powers the town’s economy and so the artisans take pride in passing on their expertise.

“We began producing there and, step by step, built very strong relationships with the city and its artisans. Today, Ubrique is inseparable from the identity of Polene.”

The brand built a workshop there and has a second in the works. Owning an integrated production model means Polene can gain greater control of all stages – from the selection and testing of materials to technical development to assembly – plus foster close dialogue between designers, technicians and artisans.

A Polene bag in an Ubrique workshop, and an artisan in Ubrique working on a Polene Mokki bag. PHOTOS: POLENE

A Polene bag in an Ubrique workshop, and an artisan in Ubrique working on a Polene Mokki bag.

Today, some 2,200 artisans in Ubrique work for Polene. Every new employee who joins the label makes an orientation visit to the town.

Much has changed since the brand’s founding.

Most notably, the LVMH group acquired a minority stake in Polene in September 2024 through its private equity firm, L Catterton.

If the tale sounds familiar, L Catterton once acquired, and later sold, a 20 per cent stake in Singapore’s Charles & Keith in 2011 when it was called L Capital Asia.

So it is an accolade for any young, independent fashion brand – even if it might come with trade-offs.

Polene, which also makes jewellery and leather accessories, increases the prices of its handbags yearly.

Since 2021, prices of popular styles like the Cyme have surged by around 30 per cent to 50 per cent. The crescent-shaped Numero Dix suffered the steepest increase in retail price of more than 60 per cent, from €270 (S$398) in 2021 to €450 in 2025 for a textured one.

The company’s last reported turnover was €142 million in 2023.

Polene Numero Dix in Graine Noir (left) and Polene Numero Dix Galop in Cerise Noire. PHOTOS: POLENE

Polene Numero Dix in Graine Noir (left) and Polene Numero Dix Galop in Cerise Noire.

With the brand gaining mass popularity, it has also received its fair share of criticism around the quality-to-price ratio of its products.

Yet, the queues keep coming. On a late Monday afternoon, a line forms outside the modest 84 sq m store in The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands. Women march in single-mindedly, ask for bags they have clearly wishlisted online and try them on, two at a time.

In Singapore, prices for bags range from $460 to $1,140, while jewellery ranges from around $230 for a ring to $980 for a necklace. The local bestsellers are the Cyme ($790), Cyme Mini ($700), Numero Neuf Mini ($700), Numero Dix (from $800) and Mokki ($970) – if you can even get your hands on the limited stock in-store.

As prices climb, could Polene be at risk of losing the “affordable luxury” label that first made it viral?

The brand would not comment on the LVMH stake and Polene’s price increases.

Asked whether he still regards Polene as a small brand, he replies: “It depends on how you define small.

“In terms of scale, Polene is obviously no longer the company it was when we started 10 years ago. We have more people, more boutiques, more clients, more responsibility. We are a growing international maison.

Polene Mokki in Smoky Olive (left) and Polene Shuldo in Desert. PHOTOS: POLENE

Polene Mokki in Smoky Olive (left) and Polene Shuldo in Desert.

“But I think there are qualities from those early years that are very important for us to preserve. We still take time to develop products. We remain selective about what we launch and where we open.”

The brand takes around 18 months to develop a new silhouette, choosing to plug waits between new styles by reinterpreting existing silhouettes through new materials, colours and variations.

“We launch it only when we feel the design is fully resolved. We don’t work according to a traditional seasonal rhythm or feel that we need to introduce something new because the calendar requires it,” Mothay says.

“I would say we are a larger brand in reach and scale, but we still want to retain the focus, curiosity and attention to detail that shaped the maison from the beginning. Becoming larger should never mean becoming less precise.”

Staying true to origins

With 14 retail locations globally, Polene is looking to expand further. It plans to continue at a “steady pace” of opening six to eight stores a year, with Dubai, Vienna and Costa Mesa coming up next.

But long-time fans should not be alarmed by the rapid scaling, Mothay assures.

“We are very conscious of the pace of our development, not because we are afraid of growth, but because we respect what it takes to grow well. Several openings in Asia happened close together, but that was more a coincidence than a new rhythm for the maison. These projects are planned far in advance,” he says.

Polene’s Singapore boutique. PHOTOS: POLENE

Polene’s Singapore boutique.

What has particularly impressed him, in Polene’s Asia expansion, is the sophistication of the clients. They have a strong knowledge and appreciation of design, materials and craftsmanship, and a willingness to understand what goes into making a piece.

“That is something we deeply respect,” he says. “We don’t try to ‘win’ customers in the conventional sense. We try to earn their attention, piece by piece, detail by detail.

“We believe the most persuasive thing we can do is to remain consistent, and uncompromising on quality and unique design.”

About 80 per cent of Polene’s sales are generated abroad, as reported by French newspaper Le Monde in March 2025, with many developing a relationship with the brand without ever encountering its products in person. Hence, the need for physical retail to express more of the maison and make its savoir-faire (French for know-how) more visible, says Mothay.

Polene Numero Neuf Mini (front) and East West at Polene's Singapore boutique. PHOTO: POLENE

Polene Numero Neuf Mini (front) and East West at Polene's Singapore boutique.

“I completely understand that fear (that we might forget our roots),” he adds.

“For us, this comes back to coherence and continuity. We are building a maison and that requires time, discipline and a very clear point-of-view. Growth should allow us to deepen our expertise rather than dilute it. We are not trying to become a house that does everything.”

Winning as a brand, to him, is about being better than they were yesterday – and earning the trust of a client who chooses them again.

“We still spend more time in Ubrique than we do in boardrooms,” he adds.

“In 10 years, I hope we can look back at every product, store and project, and still feel proud of the choices we made.”

Info: Polene is located at B2-108A The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, 2 Bayfront Avenue

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