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Why is Putien’s founder working as an outlet manager despite running a $400 million F&B group?

Putien founder Fong Chi Chung returns as outlet manager at Kitchener Road as the restaurant marks its 26th anniversary. Read more at straitstimes.com.

The Straits TimesHedy Khoo查看原文 ↗
Putien founder Fong Chi Chung with two new dishes, Tong’an Pan-fried Crab and Di Lu Muscovy Duck in Natural Essence, at the restaurant’s Kitchener Road outlet.
Putien founder Fong Chi Chung with two new dishes, Tong’an Pan-fried Crab and Di Lu Muscovy Duck in Natural Essence, at the restaurant’s Kitchener Road outlet.

Putien founder Fong Chi Chung with two new dishes, Tong’an Pan-fried Crab and Di Lu Muscovy Duck in Natural Essence, at the restaurant’s Kitchener Road outlet.

Published Oct 31, 2026, 08:15 AM

Updated Oct 31, 2026, 08:15 AM

Fong Chi Chung, founder of Putien, began selling tea and books as a boy. He later built a $400 million F&B group with about 2,500 staff and outlets across Asia.

He returned as outlet manager at Kitchener Road for Putien’s 26th anniversary. He checks the kitchen, greets diners, and keeps the original standards and family feel.

Putien started in 2000 with $200,000 and survived early chaos, SARS, and cash problems. It later grew with branding help, new outlets, and new brands in Singapore and beyond.

SINGAPORE – Long before he became a restaurateur, Fong Chi Chung honed his knack for business.

He was 11 when he began peddling tea to quarry workers in his home town of Putian in Fujian province in China.

During summer holidays, when temperatures soared to 39 deg C , he would brew 20 litres of fragrant tea and push it on a trolley to the foot of a nearby mountain where the men worked.

At one cent a cup, business was brisk. The thirsty workers were happy to see him and the school boy was thrilled with his earnings.

He used the money to buy ice popsicles for three cents each in a town 5km away, hitching a bicycle ride there, then selling them for five cents back in his village.

To prevent melting, he wrapped the icy treats in a baby blanket and packed them tightly in a wooden crate. His customers were the better-off children in his village, where few shops had refrigerators.

His next venture was less laborious and the most lucrative.

He rented out his family’s used collection of about 100 illustrated Chinese classic books, including Romance Of The Three Kingdoms and Journey To The West, for one cent a read.

He displayed the cut-out book covers outside a provision shop and paid the shopkeeper a commission. As most of the village children could not afford to buy books, his business proved a hit.

More than four decades later, Fong, 58, is founder and chief executive of Putien Holdings, a food and beverage group with about 2,500 employees and $400 million in annual revenue.

His two sons are also involved in the family business.

Elder son Fong Chak Ka, 34, is regional general manager of Putien Group Singapore, managing Putien’s outlets and its affiliate brands here. Younger son Fong Chak Wai, 32, is director of Pu Tien Services, which operates a central kitchen that provides food services to Putien as well as other F&B clients.

Its flagship brand, Putien, started as a coffee-shop eatery in Kitchener Road in 2000 and now has about 90 outlets across Asia, including 18 in Singapore.

As Putien marks its 26th anniversary on Oct 31, Fong has returned to the Kitchener Road flagship as outlet manager since the beginning of October to get back to his roots.

He greets diners, checks on the kitchen and, after years expanding the business behind the scenes, spends his time reacquainting himself with customers.

He arrives at 9am to work in the company’s fourth-floor office, heads downstairs before lunch to inspect the kitchen and chats with diners during service.

He is not above doing menial chores like sweeping the floor and wiping the glass panels whenever necessary – mainly because he is impatient and wants chores done quickly.

He then heads for the gym at 4pm before returning for dinner service.

Staff, suppliers and customers call him Uncle Fong, or Fang Shu Shu, in Mandarin. He detests being addressed as boss or by formal titles , refers to his employees as colleagues and addresses everyone by name , regardless of rank . He says he feels most at home sharing staff meals with the kitchen and service crew.

Humble but happy beginnings

The fourth of five children, Fong grew up in a family that he says was not well-off but lived comfortably and happily.

His father was a Chinese-language teacher. Both parents later moved to Hong Kong to do factory work, while Fong remained in Putian under the care of his maternal grandmother.

Today, his father, aged 89, and his mother, 83, are both retired and living in Hong Kong.

Fong grew up sharing a close bond with his grandmother, helping to feed the two pigs she reared each year. Money made from selling them paid for clothes, shoes and school supplies. She taught him how to cook, work hard and entertain guests.

Fong loved drawing from the age of eight , crafting posters for school activities . He originally harboured hopes of becoming an art teacher.

After completing a three-year fine arts course in 1987, he joined his family in Hong Kong. For two years, he painted birds and flowers on furniture screens destined for Europe and luxury hotels worldwide .

In January 2000, his elder brother enlisted his help to establish an electronics parts assembly factory in Singapore. Fong welcomed the chance for his two sons, then six and eight, to study here.

The factory began operating by April 2000, as he grappled with Singapore’s high cost of living. He gave up drinking beer after discovering that a bottle of Tiger cost $5, compared with 50 cents a bottle back home.

Family conversations often centred on the food they missed from home, such as Heng Hwa lor mee, fried Heng Hwa bee hoon and razor clam soup.

Fong knew how to cook, but found sourcing the necessary ingredients difficult. Putian’s small, sweet oysters were unavailable here, while local bee hoon was coarser than the delicate, fine-textured Heng Hwa variety.

Despite having no experience in the food business, he decided to start a restaurant in Kitchener Road as an acquaintance had told him that early Heng Hwa immigrants mostly settled around the Jalan Besar area.

Putien founder Fong Chi Chung at the restaurant’s Kitchener Road outlet. ST PHOTO: GAVIN FOO

Putien founder Fong Chi Chung at the restaurant’s Kitchener Road outlet.

With his chef brother-in-law as partner, he soft-launched Putien on Oct 12, 2000, with a capital of $200,000. The non-air-conditioned eatery had eight tables seating 60 diners and seven staff.

Although business was brisk, he shut the restaurant after two weeks of opening because he felt the kitchen was chaotic and the cooking fell short of his standards. It reopened on Oct 31, after he sorted out the workflow.

A local Cantonese chef he hired created what would become Putien’s signature Spice Mum Chilli Sauce, figuring that Singapore diners would welcome a piquant condiment with the lighter-flavoured Heng Hwa dishes. The tangy sauce, created with three different chilli peppers and without preservatives, was made available for diners to buy in 2010. It now costs $3.60 a jar at its outlets.

Putien’s signature SPice Mum Chilli Sauce. ST PHOTO: GAVIN FOO

Putien’s signature SPice Mum Chilli Sauce.

Through the years, Fong refused to spice up or season his dishes more heavily, despite requests from local diners. It is always about letting the ingredients shine for him.

Till today, his chain’s signature Fried Heng Hwa Bee Hoon ($13 for small, $25 for medium) remains lightly seasoned.

Gruelling early years

In the early days, Fong bought all the ingredients himself , refusing wholesalers’ offers of cheaper but lower-grade chillies and mushrooms . He drove an $8,000 rickety second-hand car which often broke down , loading it with boxes of oil, sauces, onions and ginger on his weekly trips to stock up on provisions.

His workday began at noon, taking orders and serving customers. He would get some shuteye between 3pm and 5pm when the restaurant took a break.

After the busy dinner service, he would have a quick dinner at 10pm before wiping down the dining area, mopping the kitchen and scrubbing the toilet. At midnight, he drove to Jurong Fishery Port, six nights a week, to buy seafood.

Initially, wholesalers scolded him for asking too many questions. Over time, he befriended them and they would keep their freshest produce for him, knowing he was willing to pay for premium items.

He remembers discovering fresh red groupers weighing about 400g, priced at just $6 each.

“I was so shocked they were so fresh and cheap,” he says, his eyes lighting up at the memory.

He bought up to 50 at a time when they were available.

Back in Kitchener Road around 3am, he scaled, gutted and packed them for lunch service. Steamed Teochew-style, they sold for $12 each, compared with about $18 at other zi char stalls, and were a n instant hit.

By the time he finished his food prep work at 8am, he barely managed three hours of sleep at his rented Tampines flat before returning for lunch service. “I didn’t call myself boss because the reality was I had to do the work of three workers in order to save money,” he recalls.

Even his chefs treated him as part of the kitchen crew. One banged a ladle on the table when he was too slow in preparing ingredients.

Despite his long hours, the restaurant struggled financially up until 2004. He had priced the dishes low to attract Singaporeans who lapped up Teochew, Hokkien and Cantonese fare, but were unfamiliar with Heng Hwa cuisine.

The severe acute respiratory syndrome outbreak in 2003 dealt him another blow and emptied the company’s coffers. His brother-in-law left the business and Fong sunk in another $20,000 to keep it afloat.

To this day, he speaks fondly of his Kitchener Road landlord of 26 years, a fellow Heng Hwa, who lowered the monthly rent from $6,500 to $5,800 for about a year to help the restaurant ride out its most challenging period that year.

Business picked up after a television programme featured Putien. The restaurant broke even in 2004 and Fong asked his landlord to restore his original rent.

In 2005, he expanded to the adjacent unit and upstairs, adding air-conditioning, private dining rooms and valet parking later. Weekend queues were a common sight.

A turning point came in 2007 when officers from Spring Singapore, now Enterprise Singapore, introduced him to management and branding consultants. He engaged them for six months, paying them fees amounting to $200,000.

Despite an initial bank loan rejection, he eventually secured funds to open new outlets in Tampines Mall, Marina Square and Jurong Point in 2008. Each outlet cost about $800,000 to set up. Outlets in City Square Mall and Parkway Parade followed in 2009, along with a central kitchen.

Today, the 18 Singapore outlets include Putien Reserve at Marina Bay Sands, a 150-seat elevated dining concept which soft-opened in August after a $3 million investment.

The group employs 750 people in Singapore and generates $200 million in local annual revenue.

Overseas, Putien has outlets in China, Malaysia, Indonesia and the Philippines, among other places.

In August 2024, against his management team’s advice, Fong scrapped service charge and decided to absorb the good and services tax at Putien’s regular restaurants.

A Singapore citizen since 2008, he says: “We need to thank our diners for their support and I want them to not feel the burden of these charges when dining at our outlets.”

He estimates that the decision cost $1 million a month for nearly a year before business finally stabilised as customers repaid his gesture by visiting more often.

He takes pride in how his service staff continued to uphold high standards of customer service across the outlets. Putien was first runner-up for Best Customer Service (Casual Dining) at the Restaurant Association of Singapore’s 2026 Epicurean Star Awards.

For his 26th anniversary in the F&B business, Fong has personally curated a menu mixing classics with lesser-known Fujian dishes. Exclusively in Kitchener Road, a horizontal single-page menu has replaced the glossy book-style version, reminiscent of Putien’s original menu when it first opened.

Among the new dishes is Tong’an Pan-fried Crab ($38 a crab). Fresh Sri Lankan crab weighing about 600g is pan-fried with ginger, without pepper or wine to mask its sweetness.

Tong’an Pan-fried Crab is a new dish. ST PHOTO: GAVIN FOO

Tong’an Pan-fried Crab is a new dish.

Di Lu Muscovy Duck in Natural Essence ($29 for regular, $58 for large) uses a traditional method he remembers from his home town. Duck was steamed without added water to obtain a nourishing essence for boys undergoing puberty.

Putien specially sources Muscovy ducks weighing 5kg to 6kg and cooks them with ginger and white rice wine. Served in a ceramic vessel kept hot by a flame beneath, the duck is tender and flavourful, reminiscent of a rich duck confit.

Di Lu Muscovy Duck in Natural Essence is made with specially sourced Muscovy duck. ST PHOTO: GAVIN FOO

Di Lu Muscovy Duck in Natural Essence is made with specially sourced Muscovy duck.

Fong says he once planned to take Putien to the United States, Britain and Japan, but changed course in 2024 to focus on bringing established brands to Singapore, Malaysia and Hong Kong.

Instead of venturing into uncharted territory, he prefers to anchor his business in locations where he has an established base.

New brands he has brought to Singapore include Hakka Yu, which debuted in December 2024 and now has five outlets , and Japanese hamburg steak concept Niku Niku Oh!! Kome at Resorts World Sentosa and Westgate. The group also runs Uncle Fong Hotpot at Great World and Suntec City.

In 2027, he plans to bring in Hong Kong’s Cai Lan Dim Sum and Japan’s Yakiniku King.

Fong has also started a new policy for all Putien outlet managers and executive chefs, in Singapore and overseas, to spend one week a year at the Kitchener Road flagship to understand the restaurant’s origins and the values and standards he expects them to uphold.

For him, returning to Kitchener Road to play his part as outlet manager means getting a better feel of the ground, taking a closer look at operations and understanding what diners want today.

He enjoys reconnecting with long-time customers, some of whom first dined at Putien when they were 10 and now return in their 30s with children in tow.

He says: “Coming back to the outlet where everything started is a homecoming for me. It is important to focus on diners and interact with them. I can view my business from a different perspective and make adjustments where needed.”

He has no plans for retirement and adds : “I still feel as passionate about my business as I did when I started.”

Hedy Khoo is senior correspondent at The Straits Times. She covers food-related news, from reviews to human interest stories.

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