For plump, homemade ‘sui kow’, head to Palace Rice Vermicelli Restaurant in Yulek, Cheras to satisfy your dumpling noodle cravings

The Palace Rice Vermicelli Restaurant in Yulek, Cheras is known for its signature rice vermicelli soup with handmade dumplings.

Each sui kow dumpling contains a whole prawn and pork mixed with water chestnut for a crunchy texture.

The restaurant also offers a satisfying Cantonese dessert, tong sui, with large glutinous rice balls.

KUALA LUMPUR, Sept 15 — What counts as a balanced breakfast nowadays?

Perhaps the right ratio of protein, carbohydrates and fat (though what’s right for each person might vary wildly, no?); if so, I volunteer my classic kopitiam trinity of kopi extra kaw , butter kaya toast and half-boiled eggs.

Perhaps that balance relates to nutritional value (which has a direct correlation with food guilt, it seems); if so, my weekday brekkie bowl of overnight oats, chia seeds, peanut butter, Greek yoghurt and blueberries ought to suffice.

But maybe I’m approaching this from entirely wrong directions. Maybe a balanced breakfast should be simpler: a little savoury and a little sweet. Anything to satisfy the morning munchies.

Which is to say this particular morning I am craving for dumpling noodles, and maybe a bowl of tong sui afterwards. (I have stereotypical Cantonese taste buds, I know; you can blame my ancestors for that.)

Make that savoury sui kow and sweet rice balls. Specifically at Palace Rice Vermicelli Restaurant in Yulek, Cheras.

The clean and well maintained shop mostly receives customers from the surrounding neighbourhood; it is a well-established if a tad under-the-radar establishment here.

Some might say that variety isn’t their strong suit (I’d argue otherwise, but more on that later): you basically come here for their signature rice vermicelli in soup with an assortment of toppings but mostly dumplings.

The dumplings in question, however, are the very definition of a mundane masterpiece. Each handmade sui kow might appear perfectly ordinary but take a bite and your assessment will alter immediately.

Expect a plump whole prawn in every sui kow ; the minced pork is mixed with water chestnut for that crunchy and refreshing mouth feel.

This is the bowl to go for on most days and definitely on your first visit. Three humongous dumplings strewn among the strands of rice vermicelli, kept warm by the naturally sweet broth (we detect the amiable presence of ikan bilis ).

There is no other choice of noodles, which might deter those who insist on a plethora of noodle selection. But fret not; this is one instance when having the choice made for you is the right decision.

For these are some of the best rice vermicelli (or mai sin in Cantonese) we’ve had: firm and springy, chewy but never mushy. Every slurp is smooth, dare I say sensually sleek on our tongues?

Little wonder the shop’s name in Chinese translates to Imperial Noodles. These are noodles fit for an emperor.

Some might prefer to switch it up on return visits. Their combination bowl with sui kow , fish ball and pork meat ball offers a little of everything.

Other popular toppings include fish cake, squid balls or even a verdant shower of nothing but chopped spring onions to go with the noodles.

I’d recommend ordering a side of fried sui kow too. Yes, it’s more dumplings but the textural difference makes this an entirely new dish: crunchy, with the edges shattering delicately into shards.

To complete our “balanced breakfast” (which, I’m sure you realise by now, veers more to excess than equilibrium), something sweet: good old Cantonese tong sui .

We share two bowls of ginger soup and barley ginkgo soup, both with glutinous rice balls. (We never encountered a tong yun we didn’t like but these are impressively large; a most satisfying mouthful.)

Honestly I can imagine returning just for the rice vermicelli or the sui kow alone, but if you have the appetite for it, why not both?

Palace Rice Vermicelli Restaurant 宮廷之米線

Taman Cheras, Kuala Lumpur .

Open daily (except Mon closed) 6am-3pm

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* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

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位于蕉赖玉力的皇宫米粉餐厅以其招牌米粉汤和手工饺子而闻名。

每个水饺都包含一整只虾仁和猪肉，并混合了荸荠，使其口感爽脆。

这家餐厅还提供令人满意的粤式甜点糖水，糖水是用大块糯米团制成的。

吉隆坡，9月15日讯——如今，什么样的早餐才算营养均衡？

或许蛋白质、碳水化合物和脂肪的合适比例才是关键（虽然每个人的合适比例可能大相径庭，不是吗？）；如果是这样，我推荐我最爱的咖啡店三件套：特浓咖啡、黄油咖椰吐司和半熟鸡蛋。

也许这种平衡与营养价值有关（这似乎与食物罪恶感直接相关）；如果是这样的话，我工作日的早餐碗——隔夜燕麦、奇亚籽、花生酱、希腊酸奶和蓝莓——应该就足够了。

但也许我的方法完全错了。也许一份均衡的早餐应该更简单：咸的一点，甜的一点。只要能满足早晨的食欲就行。

也就是说，今天早上我特别想吃饺子面，之后可能还想来一碗糖水。（我知道，我的口味很典型，这是遗传自我的祖辈。）

一定要尝尝咸香的水饺和甜糯米团。特别是位于蕉赖裕力区的皇宫米粉餐厅。

这家干净整洁的店铺主要接待附近居民的顾客；它是一家历史悠久但略显低调的店铺。

有人可能会说，菜品种类不是他们的强项（我对此持不同意见，但稍后再谈）：你来这里基本上是为了品尝他们的招牌汤米粉，配上各种配料，但主要还是饺子。

然而，这些水饺却堪称平凡中的杰作。每一个手工水饺乍看之下都毫不起眼，但咬上一口，你的看法便会立刻改变。

每份水饺里都有一只饱满的整虾；肉末里混合了荸荠，口感爽脆清爽。

这碗汤是大多数时候的首选，也是你第一次来这里必点的。三个巨大的饺子散落在米粉之间，汤汁天然鲜甜，保持着汤的温度（我们尝到了江鱼仔的美味）。

没有其他面条可供选择，这可能会让那些坚持要多种面条的人感到失望。但别担心；在这种情况下，有人替你做决定反而是件好事。

这是我们吃过最好吃的米粉（粤语叫米线）：劲道弹牙，嚼劲十足却不软烂。每一口都顺滑无比，我敢说，在舌尖上简直是一种感官享受。

难怪这家店的中文名字翻译过来是“御膳面”。这可是帝王级别的面条。

有些人可能更喜欢下次来的时候换换口味。他们的什锦饭里有水牛、鱼丸和猪肉丸，各种食材应有尽有。

其他受欢迎的配料包括鱼饼、鱿鱼丸，甚至是在面条上撒上一层翠绿的葱花。

我还建议点一份炸水饺。没错，它也是饺子，但口感上的差异让它变成了一道全新的菜肴：酥脆可口，边缘轻轻一碰就碎成小块。

为了完善我们的“均衡早餐”（我相信你现在已经意识到，这与其说是均衡，不如说是过度），来点甜的：美味的粤式糖水。

我们点了两碗姜汤和两碗银杏大麦汤，里面都有糯米团。（我们吃过的汤圆都好吃，但这些汤圆个头真大，一口下去满满的满足感。）

说实话，我觉得光是冲着米粉或者水饺就值得再来一次，但如果你胃口够大，为什么不两个都尝尝呢？

Palace Rice Vermicelli Restaurant 宫廷之米线

吉隆坡蕉赖花园。

每日营业（周一休息），上午6点至下午3点

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