← 返回新闻首页

L’entrecôte de Potager in Bamboo Hills serves KL’s most refined steak frites

KUALA LUMPUR, Sep 20 — When I wrote about the surge in bistros opening up in the Klang Valley a few months ago, I could have swapped just about every mention of “bistro” for...

Malay MailEthan Lau2026-09-20 09:00查看原文 ↗

位于竹山（Bamboo Hills）的L'entrecôte de Potager餐厅供应吉隆坡最精致的牛排薯条

The surge of bistros in KL includes a focus on steak frites, with variations found in many types of eateries.

Potager offers a refined steak frites experience with a three-course menu that includes a Black Angus sirloin with Café de Paris-style sauce.

L'entrecôte de Potager provides fine dining quality at RM250 per person, featuring steak frites that are complemented by addictive triple-cooked tallow fries.

KUALA LUMPUR, Sep 20 — When I wrote about the surge in bistros opening up in the Klang Valley a few months ago, I could have swapped just about every mention of “bistro” for “steak frites ”, and the story would’ve still worked.

In fact, it probably would’ve covered an even wider range of eateries; such is the portability of the dish that it turns up in all shapes and sizes, from the classic version in all-day bistros to budget-friendly variants in cafes and even loosely inspired renditions in shawarma joints .

Beef, it would seem, is what’s for dinner. And KL is mad about steak frites .

But where do you go for something more refined — something fit for a special occasion, like my mother’s birthday?

For my money, the most refined steak frites you’ll find in KL comes from a fine-dining kitchen.

Potager, the French ode to Malaysian produce headed by chef Masashi Horiuchi, began cashing in on the new wave of steak frites at the start of the year with L’entrecôte de Potager, a casual offshoot devoted to the one dish.

The name is a reference to the entrecôte , a term intertwined with the history of steak frites in more ways than one: first, as the cut of beef that corresponds to a boneless rib eye — entrecôte translates to “between the ribs” — and second, as the nickname of Paul Gineste de Saurs’ seminal Le Relais de Venise, which became a Paris institution by doing nothing but steak frites .

The restaurant inspired three separate groups of successors, all with “L’entrecôte” in their names in some form, and all serving steak frites the same way Le Relais de Venise did: a salad to start, then steak frites made with contre-filet (sirloin) and served with Café de Paris sauce, and a selection of desserts to finish.

The sauce takes its name from Café de Paris in Geneva, which invented entrecôte Café de Paris in the 1930s.

L’entrecôte de Potager stays mostly true to the tradition. The three-course L’entrecôte Experience, priced at RM250 per person, starts with corn soup and a garden salad, then moves on to a Black Angus sirloin with Café de Paris-style sauce and triple-cooked tallow fries.

Desserts are available à la carte . For those who want to splurge, there are pricier alternatives with turbot and blue lobster, as well as a T-bone for two and prime rib for three.

Much of the marketing describes the restaurant as the closest thing to a Parisian steakhouse experience in KL, but I beg to differ.

Set within the Potager space, the dining area is roomier, sleeker and a lot more modern than what you’d classically find in Paris, swapping white tablecloths and red leather seats for a muted taupe-and-grey scheme.

The meal begins with a corn soup that’s sweet, smooth and slightly creamy, with the mouthfeel of a very light velouté and a very clean taste of corn.

The garden salad that follows is a seasonal showcase of Potager’s produce, with lettuce, shallots, strawberries, figs and candied pumpkin seeds, plus big, crunchy croutons.

Sirloin isn’t my favourite cut — it’s a touch lean for my taste — but the best thing about steak frites in this style is that the steak doesn’t really matter. It’s just a vessel for an excellent sauce.

Still, the cuisson of the steak was a perfect medium rare, but the sauce is the true star.

There’s a bright punch of parsley laid atop, then the sauce itself, which is rich, creamy and strong with mustard.

The original Café de Paris recipe calls for chicken livers, and while I’m not sure that’s the case here, it tastes like it’s been mounted with bone marrow or tallow on top of the butter, which gives it that ultra-rich mouthfeel.

Each piece of steak is the ideal mop for the thick, unctuous substance that is this fantastic sauce.

The triple-cooked fries are fried in tallow, and they’re every bit as important as the steak, if not more so.

Crisp, fluffy and perfectly salted, they’re bona fide addictive, and you get a colossal mountain of them.

It was too much even for three of us, but they tasted just as good reheated the next day. Praise be for air fryers.

My mother thoroughly enjoyed her birthday, and my father and I both got to take home a good amount of brownie points together with our doggy bag of frites .

For RM250 a head, you get the feel of a fine-dining restaurant and the kitchen behind it, steak, a sauce worth its weight in gold and a mountain of fries that lasts into the next day.

It isn’t Paris, and it shouldn’t have to be. It’s the most refined steak frites I’ve found in KL — and the only thing that doesn’t say fine dining is the bill.

L’entrecôte de Potager

Segambut, Kuala Lumpur.

Open daily, 12-3pm, 6-10pm

https://potagerkl.com/entrecotekl/

Instagram: @entrecote.kl

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.

* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for steak frites and more.

Batman, Betty Boop and bountiful bakes: General Store in Kuchai Lama offers collectibles, crafts and coffee in a community café

Jinjang’s Restoran Mee Bebola Ikan Pak Cik Tong is not just another fishball noodle place, expect fresh seafood and broth spiked with dried scallops

The early bird gets the worm at Nasi Lemak Abu in Kelana Jaya

Prisons Dept says still waiting for official notice before Najib’s house arrest can start

Education Ministry to revisit 2006 tuition centre ownership provisions, proposal goes to Cabinet next week

Sarawak agrees in principle to RM1.5b allocation for Sibu Economic Zone, deputy premier says

吉隆坡涌现出许多小酒馆，其中以牛排薯条最为常见，各种类型的餐馆都能找到这道菜的不同版本。

Potager 提供精致的牛排薯条体验，三道菜的套餐包括配巴黎咖啡馆风味酱汁的黑安格斯西冷牛排。

L'entrecôte de Potager 提供精致的餐饮体验，每人 250 马币，特色菜是牛排薯条，搭配令人上瘾的三次烹制的牛油薯条。

吉隆坡，9 月 20 日——几个月前，当我写到巴生谷地区小酒馆如雨后春笋般涌现时，我几乎可以把文中所有“小酒馆”都替换成“牛排薯条”，这篇文章仍然成立。

事实上，它可能会涵盖更广泛的餐馆；这道菜的便携性使其以各种形式和大小出现，从全天候小酒馆的经典版本到咖啡馆的经济实惠版本，甚至在沙瓦玛店里也有受其启发而创作的版本。

看来晚餐要吃牛肉了。吉隆坡人对牛排薯条情有独钟。

但要找更精致一些的东西——适合特殊场合的东西，比如我母亲的生日？

依我之见，吉隆坡最精致的牛排薯条出自高级餐厅的厨房。

由主厨堀内正志 (Masashi Horiuchi) 掌舵的法国餐厅 Potager，以马来西亚食材为灵感，在今年年初推出了专注于牛排薯条的休闲餐厅 L'entrecôte de Potager，开始搭上这股新潮流的顺风车。

这个名字指的是 entrecôte，这个词与牛排薯条的历史有着多重联系：首先，它是牛肉中与无骨肋眼牛排相对应的部位——entrecôte 的意思是“肋骨之间”——其次，它是保罗·吉内斯特·德·索尔斯 (Paul Gineste de Saurs) 的开创性餐厅 Le Relais de Venise 的昵称，这家餐厅只做牛排薯条，却成为了巴黎的一家老字号。

这家餐厅启发了三组不同的后继者，它们的名称中都以某种形式包含“L'entrecôte”，并且都以与 Le Relais de Venise 相同的方式供应牛排薯条：先上沙拉，然后用 contre-filet（西冷牛排）制作牛排薯条，配以巴黎咖啡酱，最后提供各种甜点。

这种酱汁的名字来源于日内瓦的巴黎咖啡馆（Café de Paris），这家咖啡馆在 20 世纪 30 年代发明了巴黎咖啡馆牛排（entrecôte Café de Paris）。

L'entrecôte de Potager餐厅基本保留了传统风味。三道菜的L'entrecôte体验套餐，每位250令吉，以玉米汤和田园沙拉开胃，接着是配以巴黎咖啡馆风味酱汁的黑安格斯西冷牛排和三次烹制的牛油薯条。

甜点可单点。如果想奢侈一把，还有价格更高的选择，例如大菱鲆和蓝龙虾，以及双人份T骨牛排和三人份上等肋眼牛排。

许多营销宣传都将这家餐厅描述为吉隆坡最接近巴黎牛排馆体验的地方，但我不敢苟同。

餐厅位于 Potager 空间内，用餐区比你在巴黎常见的餐厅更宽敞、更时尚、更现代，用柔和的灰褐色调取代了白色桌布和红色皮椅。

这顿饭以一道香甜顺滑、略带奶油味的玉米汤开始，口感像非常清淡的天鹅绒酱，玉米的味道非常纯正。

接下来这道田园沙拉充分展现了波塔格农场当季的农产品，包括生菜、青葱、草莓、无花果和蜜饯南瓜籽，以及又大又脆的烤面包丁。

西冷牛排并非我的最爱——对我来说有点瘦——但这种做法的牛排薯条最棒的地方在于，牛排本身其实并不重要。它只是盛放美味酱汁的载体。

尽管如此，牛排的烹饪程度恰到好处，达到了完美的五分熟，但酱汁才是真正的亮点。

上面铺着一层鲜亮的欧芹碎，然后是酱汁本身，酱汁浓郁、顺滑，芥末味十足。

巴黎咖啡馆的原版配方需要用到鸡肝，虽然我不确定这里是不是也用了鸡肝，但尝起来像是在黄油上加了骨髓或牛油，这让它口感格外浓郁。