Look of the Week: Who wears short shorts? Juergen Teller

EDITOR’S NOTE: Featuring the good, the bad and the ugly, ‘Look of the Week’ is a regular series dedicated to unpacking the most talked about outfit of the last seven days.

You might have an idea as to what fashion people wear to runway shows. Then photographer Juergen Teller shows up, as always, to prove you wrong.

Even amid the hooplah of peacocking influencers and frazzled fashion editors, Teller’s flash of Ibiza club-colored sportswear demanded a double take. He wore them a number of times throughout Paris Fashion Week, including to the Schiaparelli show, in a café across the way from the Eiffel Tower not far from the Commes des Garcon catwalk, and most recently at the opening of the Tate’s latest exhibition, “The ‘90s: Art and Fashion,” in London. In fact, he’s been wearing a version of these shorts since 2004.

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Many people in fashion extol the virtues of a ‘uniform.’ Designers in particular will often take their catwalk bow in clothes radically different from the ones they’ve spent the last 15 minutes convincing you to buy. Take Jonathan Anderson’s blue jeans, Salomon shoes and crewneck sweaters for example, or Carolina Herrera’s crisp white button-down tucked into an A-line skirt. “I spend all my time thinking about what everyone else is wearing, so the last thing I want to do is spend too much time thinking about what I put on,” Michael Kors told Time Magazine of his signature jeans, aviators, sneakers and black T-shirt formula in 2016 .

Claudio Lavenia/Getty Images

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Getting dressed takes up sacred time, and time is money — especially for fashion folk. But while most embrace an inoffensive, fly-under-the-radar outfit, Teller, an image-making pariah, unsurprisingly takes a different approach. In his photography work, he’s recently been able to puncture fashion’s bubble with flat, fabulously ironic celebrity portraits that reject the conventional glossy magazine spread, and asks bravely: Why do we need another in-studio photoshoot with Natalie Portman in a Dior gown when we could see her amidst the chaos of a Hollywood tourist merch shop ?

Paris Fashion Week: A report from the ground

The way Teller packages himself is the same. He repeatedly pairs his Stabilo-hued shorts cut high on the thigh (“What’s the point of shorts if they’re not short?” He once told the Financial Times) with ASICS sneakers worn with ankle socks as if he’s fresh off a jog round the park. It’s a head-to-toe snub of the unwritten dress codes in an industry that cashes in on insecurity and appearances. That is his first flex. The second is that these trademark briefs are reportedly custom-made Celine — a tongue-in-cheek gift from his close friend Phoebe Philo during her tenure — and so they get the fashion seal of approval anyway.

编者按：本周“最佳造型”系列旨在评析过去七天中最受关注的穿搭，内容涵盖好的、坏的和丑陋的造型。

你或许对时尚人士在时装秀上的着装有所了解。但摄影师尤尔根·泰勒一如既往地出现，推翻你的固有印象。

即使在熙熙攘攘、争奇斗艳的网红和疲惫不堪的时尚编辑们的喧嚣中，泰勒那身伊比沙岛夜店风的运动装也足以引人注目。在巴黎时装周期间，他多次穿着这身装束亮相，包括出席夏帕瑞丽 (Schiaparelli) 的秀场、在埃菲尔铁塔对面一家咖啡馆里（距离川久保玲 (Comme des Garçons) 的秀场不远），以及最近在伦敦泰特美术馆最新展览“90年代：艺术与时尚”的开幕式上。事实上，他从2004年就开始穿着类似款式的短裤了。

时尚风尚：文化与服装的交融

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时尚圈内许多人推崇“制服”的理念。尤其是设计师们，他们经常在T台上谢幕时穿着与他们之前花15分钟极力推销的服装截然不同的服饰。例如，Jonathan Anderson的蓝色牛仔裤、Salomon鞋和圆领毛衣，或是Carolina Herrera的白色衬衫搭配A字裙。“我把所有时间都花在思考别人穿什么上，所以我最不想做的就是花太多时间思考自己穿什么，”Michael Kors在2016年接受《时代》杂志采访时谈到他标志性的牛仔裤、飞行员墨镜、运动鞋和黑色T恤的搭配时说道。

Claudio Lavenia/Getty Images

Andreas Branch/WWD/Getty Images

穿衣打扮要花费宝贵的时间，而时间就是金钱——尤其对于时尚人士而言。但当大多数人选择低调内敛的装扮时，特勒这位特立独行的摄影师却另辟蹊径，这并不令人意外。在他的摄影作品中，他近期以一系列扁平化、极具讽刺意味的明星肖像刺破了时尚圈的泡沫，这些肖像摒弃了传统的杂志大片模式，并大胆地提出疑问：既然我们能看到娜塔莉·波特曼身着迪奥礼服出现在好莱坞旅游纪念品商店的喧嚣中，为什么还要再拍一张她在影棚里的照片呢？

巴黎时装周：来自现场的报道

泰勒的穿衣风格始终如一。他总是穿着高腰的施德楼色短裤（他曾对《金融时报》说：“短裤要是不短，还有什么意义？”），搭配亚瑟士运动鞋和及踝袜，仿佛刚从公园慢跑回来。这身打扮从头到脚都无视着时尚圈不成文的着装规范，而这个行业正是利用人们的不安全感和外表来牟利。这是他炫耀的第一点。第二点是，据说他标志性的短裤是赛琳定制的——这是他的好友菲比·菲洛在她任职期间送给他的一份略带玩笑意味的礼物——所以无论如何，它们都获得了时尚界的认可。