The Golden Age of Mexican food is here, and it’s complicated墨西哥菜的黄金时代已经到来,而且情况很复杂。
Mexican cuisine is thriving across the United States, even as the immigrants who helped shape its food culture face a harsher political climate.

Patrons dine at Taquería Elemi, a new standout in El Paso, Texas which has exceptional taquerias. — CENGIZ YAR/The New York
ALONG the old path of Route 66, the drive-ins and lunch joints of Oklahoma City look a bit different from the picture postcards in nearby souvenir shops.
Instead of burgers and shakes, you’ll find superspecific varieties of tacos, tortas de albañil, traditional Mexican stews and tostadas de pollo.
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顾客们可以在得克萨斯州埃尔帕索的 Taquería Elemi 餐厅用餐,这是一家新开的餐厅,提供优质的墨西哥快餐店。 ——CENGIZ YAR/纽约
沿着 66 号公路的旧路,俄克拉荷马城的汽车餐厅和午餐店看起来与附近纪念品商店里的明信片上的景象略有不同。
这里没有汉堡和奶昔,取而代之的是各种特色美食,如墨西哥玉米卷、阿尔巴尼尔三明治、传统墨西哥炖菜和鸡肉烤饼。
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