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The Golden Age of Mexican food is here, and it’s complicated

Mexican cuisine is thriving across the United States, even as the immigrants who helped shape its food culture face a harsher political climate.

The Star MalaysiaBILL ESPARZA, BRETT ANDERSON查看原文 ↗
墨西哥菜的黄金时代已经到来,而且情况很复杂。

Patrons dine at Taquería Elemi, a new standout in El Paso, Texas which has exceptional taquerias. — CENGIZ YAR/The New York

ALONG the old path of Route 66, the drive-ins and lunch joints of Oklahoma City look a bit different from the picture postcards in nearby souvenir shops.

Instead of burgers and shakes, you’ll find superspecific varieties of tacos, tortas de albañil, traditional Mexican stews and tostadas de pollo.

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