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Incheon's Baedari Secondhand Bookstore Alley bridges history, welcomes the world

INCHEON — When Incheon native Kim Ji-da opened an English bookstore in the Baedari Secondhand Bookstore Alley in the city’s eastern district, she j...

The Korea TimesAnastasia Traynin查看原文 ↗
Kim Ji-da, owner of Najeun Munteok bookstore, stands in front of her store in Incheon's Baedari neighborhood, Aug. 5. Courtesy of Anastasia Traynin
Kim Ji-da, owner of Najeun Munteok bookstore, stands in front of her store in Incheon's Baedari neighborhood, Aug. 5. Courtesy of Anastasia Traynin

Incheon’s Baedari Secondhand Bookstore Alley is being revived by booksellers who are linking its postwar used-book tradition to new international events and visitors. Kim Ji-da’s Najeun Munteok, an English bookstore that marked its second anniversary in late August, is one of eight shops now operating in the alley. The neighborhood is preparing for the Baedari Bookbridge festival on Oct. 24 and the Unknown Book Festival on Oct. 17-18. Local booksellers also continue community events such as the monthly Late-Night Bookstore series.

Baedari once had up to 50 used bookshops during its peak from the 1970s to the 1990s, but the number declined after the late 1990s Asian financial crisis.

Kwak Hyeon-suk has run Abel Bookstore continuously since 1973, except for a brief period of traveling labor work at the end of the 1970s.

Starting in 2007, Kwak held a daily one-person protest in front of Incheon City Hall for nearly three years over a planned throughroad.

The Baedari booksellers launched The Late-Night Bookstore series for the last Wednesday of each month, and the latest event took place on Aug. 26 from 7 to 10 p.m.

The Unknown Book Festival will take place Oct. 17-18 and will feature an English-language program for the first time, according to organizer Kim Hae-ri.

Published Sep 24, 2026 11:50 am KST

Kim Ji-da, owner of Najeun Munteok bookstore, stands in front of her store in Incheon's Baedari neighborhood, Aug. 5. Courtesy of Anastasia Traynin

INCHEON — When Incheon native Kim Ji-da opened an English bookstore in the Baedari Secondhand Bookstore Alley in the city’s eastern district, she joined a multigenerational used bookseller tradition that stretches back to the end of the 1950-53 Korean War. Marking its second anniversary at the end of August, Kim's Najeun Munteok is one of eight bookstores currently operating in the alley.

As a longtime English teacher and reading club organizer who also goes by her chosen French name Sophie, Kim understands the challenge that English books pose to Korean readers. Her store features many titles for adults and children. She named her store Najeun Munteok — meaning low threshold — to reflect accessibility and an open community spirit.

“I never dreamed of opening my bookstore as a business,” Kim said. “Though it’s hard to make a profit and manage everything, I was inspired by the booksellers here and their love for books. I like to communicate through reading and talking about books, and it’s also very rewarding to introduce good books to others. So I am happy with my job now.”

Kim hopes to attract more international residents and travelers to Baedari, a historic neighborhood whose name is associated with a boat bridge that once spanned a tidal channel in the area, when seawater reached much farther inland than it does today.

“Unlike other places around Seoul which are already developed, this place has a lot of interesting history that I want to share with Koreans and also foreign friends," she said. “Some local people consider this area as a slum, but I want to hold diverse events to remind us of its value.”

During an early August heat wave, there were still a number of local tourists who had come specifically to snap photographs of one of the alley’s oldest bookstores, Hanmi Books, which first opened in 1953 and has been used as a well-known filming location. Kim jokingly recalled the owner once telling her, “I don’t have many customers. I have many tourists.”

Kwak Hyeon-suk, left, and Kim Ji-da stand in front of Abel Bookstore in Incheon's Baedari neighborhood, Aug. 5. Courtesy of Anastasia Traynin

Najeun Munteok’s building is owned by Kwak Hyeon-suk, the founder of Abel Bookstore, who, apart from a brief stint in traveling labor work at the end of the 1970s, has run her historic used bookshop continuously since 1973. The name Abel draws from her strong Christian heritage and reflects her idea of keeping her pure original intention. While Hanmi Books and others are run by the original owners’ children, Kwak, 76, has no heirs or plans to transfer ownership.

“It’s not easy to pass down the bookstore to anyone who doesn’t have the love for and experience with books,” Kwak said. “I’ve invested my whole life into this bookshop, and I want to encourage more people to open their own.”

Her contagious spirit worked on Kim. “Anyone who meets [Ms. Kwak] can feel her energy,” Kim said. “I was particularly attracted to the building she owned and renovated herself. So I got up the courage to try opening a bookstore here.”

Kwak Hyeon-suk, founder of Abel Bookstore, speaks in Incheon's Baedari neighborhood, Aug. 5. Courtesy of Anastasia Traynin

At its peak throughout the 1970s to 1990s, Baedari counted up to 50 used bookshops, but that number began to decline during the Asian financial crisis in the late 1990s.

After settling into her seventh and final location in the alley in 1995, Kwak participated in a movement to preserve the area from encroaching development. Starting in 2007, she held a daily one-person protest in front of Incheon City Hall for nearly three years, calling for a planned throughroad to be constructed as an underpass instead of cutting through the Baedari neighborhood.

The same year, Abel Bookstore opened a regular community poetry festival under the slogan “You Are All Poets,” which ran until 2025. Through Kwak’s and others’ efforts, Baedari Book Alley was saved and is now promoted by the local government as a culture and art street. In an era of franchise online bookstores and a decline in public literacy and bookbuying, Kwak continues to spread her philosophy of books to the next generation.

“Promoting a bookstore is done mainly by word of mouth,” she said. “For teenagers and adults, I want to teach people one by one the importance of reading and educating yourself. Sometimes I feel lonely because I’m not so flexible to others, but I receive energy from the books.”

Women of many generations gather at Nabi Nalda bookstore in Incheon's Baedari neighborhood, July 29. Courtesy of Anastasia Traynin

Though not all the Baedari booksellers are women, the multigenerational presence of woman-owned bookshops stands out in this area. Besides her own dedication to books and reading, Kwak was inspired by the legacy left by the legendary Korean novelist Park Kyung-ni (1926-2008), best known for the 21-volume "Toji" (Land), who briefly ran a small secondhand bookshop in Baedari in the years leading up to the Korean War. A second-floor corner of Abel Bookstore is dedicated to Park’s memory.

Kwak Hyeon-suk, founder of Abel Bookstore, stands in front of a memorial library dedicated to author Park Kyung-ni in Incheon's Baedari neighborhood, Aug. 5. Courtesy of Anastasia Traynin

Rather than competing for customers, the eight booksellers in Baedari cooperate on preserving and promoting their community. To give day workers a chance to visit their shops on weekday evenings, they have launched a series called The Late-Night Bookstore for the last Wednesday of each month. The inaugural event took place July 29 in the form of a travel suitcase-themed street flea market in the alley outside Nabi Nalda Bookstore, which has operated in Baedari since 2009.

“We wanted to bring more people together to visit our shops, and I proposed to host the first one,” said Nabi Nalda Bookstore owner Cheongsan Byeolgok, a nickname from a traditional folk song of the same name meaning “Song of the Green Mountains.”

Cheongsan Byeolgok stands in front of her bookstore, Nabi Nalda, in Incheon's Baedari neighborhood, July 29. Courtesy of Anastasia Traynin

Known as the local “cat bookstore” that was previously unmanned with an in-store cat as its “manager,” Nabi Nalda focuses on selling environment and social justice-themed books. On March 26, more than 100 community members formed a human chain to manually transport 10,000 books to the shop’s fourth and current location, a former general store owned by an elderly local woman. Retaining the store’s exterior, signboard, as well as the garden tended to by the original owner, Cheongsan Byeolgok aims to preserve the alley neighborhood spirit while attracting new visitors.

As for Kim, she is preparing for the Baedari Bookbridge, a first-of-its-kind local international bookshop festival set to take place Oct. 24, that will bring together independent bookshops from across Asia. The project is funded solely through community support and volunteer efforts of the involved booksellers and local community.

“While traveling throughout Asia, I met several bookshop owners who liked what I was doing and wanted to visit,” Kim said. “At first, I was just stopping by because I liked books, but as I visited more and more shops, I was very interested and inspired to connect together.”

“With the help of Ms. Kwak who supported and sponsored the project, I could invite booksellers from Vietnam, Hong Kong, Taiwan and Thailand. I want more people to come here and be inspired by the Baedari booksellers’ philosophies,” Kim added.

A flea market is held in front of Nabi Nalda bookstore in Incheon's Baedari neighborhood, July 29. Courtesy of Anastasia Traynin

The latest Wednesday late-night bookstore took place from 7 to 10 p.m. on Aug. 26 with three separate events at Nabi Nalda Bookstore, M.S. Book Cafe and Najeun Munteok. The latter hosted Seoul-based South African poet Manthipe Moila for a conversation about her 2025 poetry collection " Rootbound ."

The next Wednesday event will take place Sept. 30 with special programs to be announced.

Building momentum ahead of the Baedari Bookbridge event, Kim will participate as an English-language tour guide during the third annual Unknown Book Festival that will take place in the area Oct. 17-18. The festival is run by the multipurpose cultural space Patchwork Baedari that opened in 2021.

According to organizer Kim Hae-ri, this year’s festival will be the first to feature an English-language program.

“We had an unexpectedly large number of international visitors last year and were lucky to have someone in the local community to help us envision an English tour,” she said.

Beyond the English tour, the Unknown Book Festival will feature visiting residency artists from Thailand. Other events open to visitors include a book market with creators from all over Korea taking place at Incheon’s historic 100-year-old Changyoung Elementary School, as well as a DJ booth, a table for making DIY zines and other hands-on crafts, and a market with various delicacies.

Patchwork Baedari shares the local booksellers’ goal of revitalizing the secondhand bookstore alley, through the introduction of a roasting cafe, gallery, store and community space.

“Our role is acting as a catalyst for bringing more people to this alley which has grown quiet in recent years,” she said.

Visit patchwork.incheon.kr for more information and to make reservations for the Unknown Book Festival.

For more updates on the Baedari Bookbridge project and Najeun Munteok, follow the Instagram accounts @baedari_bookbridge and @sophie.bookshelf .

Anastasia Traynin is a writer, editor, translator and teacher based in Seoul.

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