Here’s what’s happening at Paris Fashion Week以下是巴黎时装周的最新动态
The biggest arena for the industry’s battle of ideas, is in full swing. Rihanna’s here, maniacal crowds are lining up outside shows to screech and wave at their favorite stars and days of runway events lie ahead.

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Paris Fashion Week, the biggest arena for the industry’s battle of ideas, is in full swing. Rihanna’s here , maniacal crowds are lining up outside shows to screech and wave at their favorite stars and days of runway events big and small lie ahead.
If Monday’s opening day was defined by a series of thinky shows by emerging ingenues including the creative duo behind Matières Fécales, Swedish one to watch Ellen Hodakova Larsson, and LVMH prize-winner Julie Kegels, Tuesday was when big houses like Dior and Saint Laurent ramped things up with their high octane productions and masterful collections. Cult brand Maison Margiela , the label behind the freaky looking tabi shoe, also staged its latest renegade runway show. Against a backdrop of wilting flowers that left a subtle funk in the air, designer Glenn Martens once against put forth ideas that challenged conventions of beautiful clothing. Models walked in toeless, knee-high boots in sculpted blazers and shirts that left the chest open and gaping, and floral prints clashed with the set behind them.
There’s a lot going on in the French capital this week. Follow our coverage as we zoom in and out on the little delights and big moments that grabbed our attention.
This story is ongoing and will be updated.
Sarah Meyssonnier/Reuters
The Saint Laurent show, staged under the dramatic glow of the Eiffel Tower, has long been a buzzy tentpole of Paris Fashion Week. But on Tuesday the energy of the event revved up further amid speculation that the show would be creative director Anthony Vaccarello’s last after ten years at the house. The almost all-gold collection certainly suggested a milestone moment. Alchemic looks rendered in many shades and textures of gold looked back at archetypes from Yves Saint Laurent’s heyday — Safari-style jackets, trenches and wrap skirts — while more modern silhouettes such as Vaccarello’s bouncy blouson jackets reminded those watching of his impact at the house. The runway event ended with a performance by Charlotte Gainsbourg and a standing ovation for Vaccarello who wrote in the show notes, “A light shines all the more brightly because we know it cannot be held. What passes sometimes leaves more light than what remain.”
Simon Wohlfahrt/AFP/Getty Images
Imagine a rich young thing throwing her fanciful clothes over the door of a bedroom armoire before falling into bed, makeup on, at the end of a day. These were the pieces that Dior’s Jonathan Anderson sent down the runway in the Jardin des Tuileries on Tuesday afternoon. Once again guests were seated around a circular pond under scorching heat, the misty water and breezy flounce of the clothes offering little physical respite from the realities of our surroundings, but managing for a moment to export us away mentally. Skirts, tops and what looked like earrings made of layers of circle-cut chiffon, and light as air sheer jacketing suggested Anderson was looking to define his version of romance, a mood the French house has long-conjured during its history. While his love story felt young and full of hope, it wasn’t naive — any prissyness was broken up with sharper elements like a series of python-effect metallic trousers and modern styling that left shirts loose and untucked and allowed checks and patterns to clash.
Filippo Fior/Gorunway.com/Courtesy Matières Fécales
In a challenging economy brands aren’t much for taking big risks or causing upset, so Matières Fécales bold, statement-making show that saw models stomp down the runway with mannequins representing the wealthy elite slumped over their backs had no trouble gaining traction online, thanks also to the hype-inducing appearance of Rihanna who sat front row. Steven Raj Bhaskaran, who is partnered in life and work with Hannah Rose Dalton, wrote in show notes that the collection was focussing on empowering “those most vulnerable in the Ninety Nine Per Cent.”
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巴黎时装周,这个时尚界创意碰撞的舞台,正在如火如荼地进行中。蕾哈娜也来了,狂热的粉丝们在秀场外排起长队,尖叫着向他们喜爱的明星挥手致意,接下来几天还有各种规模的T台活动等着他们。
如果说周一的开幕日以一系列新锐设计师的深思熟虑之作为主打,其中包括Matières Fécales的创意二人组、备受瞩目的瑞典设计师Ellen Hodakova Larsson以及LVMH大奖得主Julie Kegels,那么周二则是Dior和Saint Laurent等大牌以其活力四射的制作和精湛的系列作品将秀场推向高潮。以造型奇特的分趾鞋而闻名的潮牌Maison Margiela也上演了其最新的颠覆性时装秀。在凋零的花朵营造出的淡淡颓靡氛围中,设计师Glenn Martens再次挑战了传统美的固有观念。模特们身着露趾及膝长靴,搭配剪裁利落的西装外套和敞开胸怀的衬衫,花卉印花与背景形成鲜明对比。
本周法国首都巴黎精彩纷呈。我们将带您深入了解那些吸引我们眼球的细微之处和重大事件,敬请关注我们的报道。
此报道仍在进行中,我们将持续更新。
萨拉·梅索尼尔/路透社
在埃菲尔铁塔璀璨灯光下举行的圣罗兰 (Saint Laurent) 时装秀,一直是巴黎时装周的重头戏。周二,这场秀的氛围更是被推向高潮,因为外界猜测这将是创意总监安东尼·瓦卡雷洛 (Anthony Vaccarello) 在圣罗兰十年任期内的最后一场秀。几乎全金的系列无疑预示着一个里程碑式的时刻。以多种色调和质感的金色打造的炼金术般的造型,回顾了伊夫·圣罗兰 (Yves Saint Laurent) 鼎盛时期的经典元素——猎装夹克、风衣和裹身裙——而瓦卡雷洛设计的更具现代感的廓形,例如蓬松的短款夹克,则让观众再次感受到他对圣罗兰的深远影响。时装秀以夏洛特·甘斯布 (Charlotte Gainsbourg) 的精彩表演和全场起立鼓掌的致敬落下帷幕。瓦卡雷洛在秀场笔记中写道:“正因为我们知道光芒无法被束缚,它才显得更加耀眼。逝去的事物,有时留下的光芒比留下的更多。”
西蒙·沃尔法特/法新社/盖蒂图片社
想象一下,一位富家千金在一天结束时,将她精心打扮的华服随意地扔在卧室衣橱门上,然后化着妆倒头就睡。这就是迪奥创意总监乔纳森·安德森(Jonathan Anderson)周二下午在杜乐丽花园秀场上呈现的场景。宾客们再次围坐在一个圆形池塘边,烈日当空,水雾缭绕,飘逸的裙摆和轻盈的服饰几乎无法让我们从酷暑中解脱出来,却也让我们在精神上暂时忘却了烦恼。裙装、上衣,以及看似由多层圆形雪纺制成的耳环,还有轻盈如空气般的薄纱外套,都暗示着安德森想要诠释他心目中的浪漫,而这种浪漫情调正是迪奥品牌在其悠久历史中一直钟爱的。虽然他的爱情故事感觉年轻而充满希望,但并不天真——任何矫揉造作都被更犀利的元素所打破,例如一系列蟒蛇纹金属裤和现代的造型,衬衫宽松不扎进裤子,格子和图案相互碰撞。
Filippo Fior/Gorunway.com/Courtesy Matières Fécales
在经济形势严峻的情况下,品牌通常不愿冒险或制造争议,因此,Matières Fécales 这场大胆而引人注目的时装秀——模特们背着代表富裕精英的模特跺着脚走下T台——却轻松在网络上引发热议,这也要归功于蕾哈娜坐在前排的亮相,进一步提升了品牌的关注度。设计师史蒂文·拉杰·巴斯卡兰(Steven Raj Bhaskaran)与汉娜·罗斯·道尔顿(Hannah Rose Dalton)是生活和事业上的伴侣,他在秀场笔记中写道,该系列旨在赋予“99%中最弱势的群体”力量。