Gigantic insects, loft parties and freaky footwear: New York Fashion Week finds its fun

This New York Fashion Week served up something the city has in swathes: confidence. There was theater (in Thom Browne’s human-sized insects), drama (of the kind the CFDA surely hopes we’ll forget ), and a lot of old fashioned glamour. Several designers reminded us that when a brand does away with chasing virality or shallow spectacle, and instead celebrates their singularity, fashion magic can still exist. The week was less about designers feeling the pressure to make something new and never-before-seen, and more about embracing what works and has always made them stand out. If you don’t truly know yourself, you can’t dress yourself, either.

Brands leaned into their signature codes — whether it be designer of the moment Henry Zankov and his simultaneous refresh of Diane von Furstenburg’s classic wrap dress and his own namesake label, Zankov, or Eckhaus Latta throwing a loft party complete with mesh outfits meant for misbehaving and freaky PVC footwear gliding across confetti-sprinkled hardwood floors. Thom Browne meanwhile invited guests to theoretically touch grass with a gargantuan gardenscape presentation complete with impeccably tailored insect-inspired outfits. It was a welcome reminder that all of this is meant to be simultaneously fabulous and fun .

There were still moments of good old fashioned runway enchantment. Carolina Herrera marked 45 years in business with models gracing a runway in the spectacular David H. Koch theater filled to the brim with planted tulips. Daniella Kallymeyer served up tailored bar jackets, sultry knits, and sumptuous satin blouses — a refreshing interpretation of aspirational minimalism that was far more interesting than any form of “quiet luxury.” Sandy Liang continued to stress that unapologetic femininity is far from a fault (and that she truly understands a downtown girl’s penchant for polka dot bombers and tutu midi skirts). And industry darling Rachel Scott of Diotima and Proenza Schouler kept on playing with sartorial sex appeal, using eye-catching texture, bold print work and fabulously furry detailing with aplomb.

Below are some of the looks –– and unfiltered moments –– we saw.

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本届纽约时装周展现了这座城市随处可见的特质：自信。秀场上既有戏剧化的元素（比如汤姆·布朗设计的真人大小的昆虫），也有令人难忘的戏剧性场面（美国时装设计师协会肯定希望我们忘记的那种），还有许多复古的魅力。几位设计师提醒我们，当一个品牌不再追逐网络爆款或肤浅的噱头，而是专注于展现自身的独特性时，时尚的魔力依然可以存在。这一周，设计师们不再感到必须创作出前所未见的新作品的压力，而是更加注重拥抱那些行之有效、一直以来让他们脱颖而出的元素。如果你不真正了解自己，你也无法为自己选择合适的服装。

各大品牌纷纷展现其标志性风格——无论是当红设计师亨利·赞科夫(Henry Zankov)同时推出黛安·冯芙丝汀宝(Diane von Furstenburg)经典裹身裙的全新演绎，还是他同名品牌赞科夫(Zankov)的全新亮相；亦或是埃克豪斯·拉塔(Eckhaus Latta)举办的阁楼派对，以网状服饰展现桀骜不驯的一面，搭配怪诞的PVC鞋履在洒满五彩纸屑的硬木地板上翩翩起舞；汤姆·布朗(Thom Browne)则以一场规模宏大的花园景观秀，邀请宾客们“触摸”草坪，并搭配剪裁精良、灵感源自昆虫的服饰。这一切都令人欣喜地提醒我们，所有这一切的最终目的都是为了兼具华丽与趣味。

时尚秀场上依然不乏令人心醉神迷的经典瞬间。Carolina Herrera 庆祝品牌创立 45 周年，模特们在摆满郁金香的壮丽的 David H. Koch 剧院中惊艳亮相。Daniella Kallymeyer 则带来了剪裁合身的酒吧夹克、性感针织衫和奢华缎面衬衫——这种对理想极简主义的全新诠释，远比任何形式的“低调奢华”都更引人入胜。Sandy Liang 继续强调，毫不掩饰的女性魅力绝非缺点（她也深谙都市女孩对波点飞行员夹克和芭蕾舞裙的偏爱）。而 Diotima 和 Proenza Schouler 的业界宠儿 Rachel Scott 则继续玩转服装的性感魅力，巧妙运用吸睛的纹理、大胆的印花和精美的皮草细节，展现出非凡的时尚品味。

以下是我们看到的一些造型——以及未经修饰的瞬间。

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