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Gen Zs say they are against fast fashion. So why are they still queueing for it?

Gen Z shoppers in Singapore queue for fast fashion labels like Subdued, despite growing concern over sustainability. Read more at straitstimes.com.

The Straits TimesThe Straits Times查看原文 ↗
Content creator Sarah Lim, 20, outside Subdued’s Bugis+ store in a pink knit jacket from the label, which she wears almost every day.
Content creator Sarah Lim, 20, outside Subdued’s Bugis+ store in a pink knit jacket from the label, which she wears almost every day.

Content creator Sarah Lim, 20, outside Subdued's Bugis+ store in a pink knit jacket from the label, which she wears almost every day.

PHOTO: COURTESY OF SARAH LIM

Published Oct 15, 2026, 11:15 AM

Updated Oct 15, 2026, 03:58 PM

Young Singaporeans say they care about sustainability, but many still queue for fast, trendy fashion because of price, style and social buzz.

Subdued’s Singapore launch drew huge crowds, long queues and strong online attention, while the brand says it limits stock and rejects the fast fashion label.

Experts say the gap is driven by low budgets, social shopping and dopamine from buying, while thrift helps, but overconsumption and textile waste remain serious problems.

SINGAPORE – At about 9am on April 10, shoppers began gathering outside a new store in Wheelock Place. By the afternoon, a snaking queue of up to about 150 people stretched across two floors of the mall, and many waited about two hours to get in.

They were there for Subdued, an Italian label making its Singapore debut. The response was “exponentially much higher than what we initially thought”, says Vishesh Juneja, chief executive for Singapore and Malaysia at Gill Capital, which runs Subdued in the region.

In an interview with The Straits Times, he adds: “We were overwhelmed, to be honest.”

The 1,400 sq ft store drew about 6,000 visitors a day that weekend. “I had to personally cater for water and juices,” he recalls. “Within a week, we practically ran out of stock”.

Inside, the crush moved to the fitting rooms. “People wanted to take six to 12 pieces to try, and they were making live videos,” Juneja says. That online buzz, he adds, “contributed a lot to the next day’s queue”.

A second outlet opened at Bugis+ in September, drawing queues again, though not on the same scale. These days, the Wheelock store sees about 50,000 visitors a month.

When content creator Sarah Lim, 20, dropped by at about 3pm or 4pm one weekday, she waited behind six to eight people for a fitting room, many of them school students still in their uniforms.

The design practice student at Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts (NAFA), who has about 140,000 followers on TikTok, visited the store partly for the experience. “When I step into Subdued, I probably spend an hour plus just trying on all the clothes there,” she says.

Shoppers throng the Subdued clothing store at Wheelock Place on April 18. ST PHOTO: BRIAN TEO

Shoppers throng the Subdued clothing store at Wheelock Place on April 18.

Young Singaporeans have been known to say they care about the planet. Yet mass-market brands still top their shopping lists.

According to market research firm YouGov’s 2024 fashion rankings, Japanese retailer Uniqlo led desirability, with 51% of Singapore Gen Z respondents saying they would consider it the next time they shop for clothes. It was followed by Nike at 38%, adidas at 30%, H&M at 22% and Cotton On at 19%.

It is not that they do not care. In a survey of 1,500 Singaporeans released in February by insurer Singlife and the Sustainable and Green Finance Institute at the National University of Singapore, 60% of Gen Z respondents said they were fully or mostly aware of sustainable issues.

But they were less likely than older Singaporeans to act on it. About half said they recycle, compared with about 70% of Gen X and baby boomers. Across all ages, 65% said they prefer to buy from more sustainable companies, but only 38% were willing to pay more for sustainable products.

In Singapore, proof of demand is in the ever-evolving retail landscape.

Fellow Italian fast-fashion brand Brandy Melville briefly left Singapore in 2020, but returned in August 2024 with a bigger, two-storey store in Orchard Road. New Zealand label Glassons, whose Australian sales rose 29% in the past year, held its first pop-up here in May and now ships to Singapore through a dedicated online store.

Subdued is also expanding in the region, with Singapore setting the pace. “Singapore would lay down the trends first in the region, even today,” says Juneja, declining to reveal more details.

Sarah Lim in a grey zip-up hoodie with Subdued's angel-wing print, the label's bestseller in Singapore. PHOTO: COURTESY OF SARAH LIM

Sarah Lim in a grey zip-up hoodie with Subdued's angel-wing print, the label's bestseller in Singapore.

Lim does not see Subdued as fast fashion, since most pieces she buys cost $40 to $80. “I wouldn’t say they are so cheap that people can quickly buy a new one every single time something new and trendy comes into store,” she says.

She first heard of the brand in April when Subdued invited her to do a campaign and attend the media preview for its Wheelock Place opening. She has since become a fan of the brand, though she buys something only about once every month or two, spending about $70 of her own savings each time.

Rifah Tashfiah Mazumder, 23, who shops at Subdued, Brandy Melville and Glassons, does not shy away from calling them fast fashion. She says people her age buy them anyway because they are affordable.

“It doesn’t have to be Shein for it to be fast fashion. All of these big corporations are kind of fast fashion, realistically speaking,” says the content creator with 38,100 TikTok followers. “Obviously, it’s not very sustainable. But the reason a lot of people our age shop more from fast fashion is solely because of the cost.”

Rifah Tashfiah Mazumder in an outfit (left) from Brandy Melville, and her sporting a top (right) from Glassons. PHOTOS: COURTESY OF RIFAH TASHFIAH MAZUMDER

Rifah Tashfiah Mazumder in an outfit (left) from Brandy Melville, and her sporting a top (right) from Glassons.

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF RIFAH TASHFIAH MAZUMDER

Being Bengali, she feels guilty knowing that many fast-fashion garment workers come from Bangladesh and may not be working under optimal circumstances. “But it’s just not sustainable for me, especially at my current age, to spend a few hundred dollars on just one or two pieces of clothing. Maybe one day, when I have more money and financial stability, I’ll be able to shop from smaller brands.”

She buys new clothes every week or two, spending $200 to $300 a month, and up to $700 some months. She does not set a budget. “Money always comes back,” she says.

In the head, not the heart

Tracy Loh, senior lecturer of communication management at Singapore Management University’s Lee Kong Chian School of Business, calls this gap between what young shoppers say and what they buy the attitude-behaviour gap.

“Everybody knows about sustainability and how important it is, and they feel that it’s important, but then life happens,” she says.

Sustainable clothing also tends to cost more and is harder to find. “They take a longer time to develop and, more often than not, don’t look as good,” she adds.

When she asks her students what they consider when buying clothes or eyewear, the answer is “price, design, colours, speed”. “Sustainability is not in their top 10 (priorities),” she says.

For teenagers with limited pocket money, every dollar counts. “If we’re going to talk about $3 or $4, it might mean whether I can have my bubble tea today or not.”

Shopping is also a group activity. “When you go shopping for clothes, it’s an outing with your friends. It’s a chance to gather, to gossip. It’s a bonding experience as well,” she says. “Shopping is not a utilitarian experience. It’s a social experience.”

Queues add to the appeal. “Being in the queue and being one of the first makes for great TikTok material,” she says.

Cheap online buys add up too. Each click to checkout gives a dopamine hit, she says, and shoppers can rationalise each purchase. “It’s only $10. It’s only $20. I can afford it.”

But Loh says it is unfair to single out Gen Z. “Young people flocking to all these stores and buying fast fashion – this is not something that is unique to the current generation. Every generation has that,” she says. “When I was a teenager, there was the Forever 21 craze .

“It’s almost like a passage of life that you go through.”

Young people already know sustainability matters, she adds. “But it’s in the head, not in the heart.”

And there persists a more pressing priority: fitting in. Anthony Tan, associate dean of the School of Fashion Studies at NAFA, says brands like Subdued, Brandy Melville and Glassons sell “a lifestyle, identity and sense of belonging”.

“Young shoppers want brands that reflect their identity. Subdued’s effortless cool-girl aesthetic speaks directly to how young consumers want to present themselves,” he says. “Young people may want to dress like their peers or participate in a current aesthetic, even when doing so conflicts with their sustainability values.”

Social media raises the stakes. It “creates pressure to keep up, constantly exposing young consumers to new outfits, microtrends and ‘must-have’ items, and making repeated purchasing feel normal”, he says.

That is where fast fashion comes in. “Social media also increases the pressure to refresh outfits regularly, so lower-priced fashion becomes attractive because it allows consumers to experiment with different styles without a major financial commitment.”

Online, fans have chosen teams. “People are divided into Brandy baddies and Subdued angels,” says Lim, the content creator. “I would say I’m a Subdued angel kind of girl.”

The thrift alternative

Not all Gen Zs are cut from the same cloth. About 95% of 25-year-old Nguwar Myint’s wardrobe is second-hand.

About 95% of Nguwar Myint's wardrobe is second-hand, including this $19 top from Un.Wastelands and cargo pants from a vintage seller on Taobao. PHOTO: COURTESY OF NGUWAR MYINT

About 95% of Nguwar Myint's wardrobe is second-hand, including this $19 top from Un.Wastelands and cargo pants from a vintage seller on Taobao.

PHOTO: COURTESY OF NGUWAR MYINT

She started thrifting in 2020, after meeting a university friend with a distinctive style. “I loved how she used fashion as a form of self-expression,” she says.

That friend also taught her about thrifting’s environmental benefits and the importance of developing mindful consumption habits. “I primarily still do it for the ethical reasons,” Nguwar, a quality assurance engineer, says.

Her best finds include a 100% silk BCBG Max Azria lace top that cost $5 from Lucky Plaza, and a 2000s Fossil watch that cost $50 including repairs.

She buys new clothes only when she needs “a specific item that I cannot borrow from anyone or feasibly thrift in a short period of time”.

Nguwar Myint paid $5 for a 100% silk BCBG Max Azria lace top (left) at Lucky Plaza. Her 2000s Fossil stainless-steel watch (right), bought on Carousell, cost $50 including repairs. PHOTOS: COURTESY OF NGUWAR MYINT

Nguwar Myint paid $5 for a 100% silk BCBG Max Azria lace top (left) at Lucky Plaza. Her 2000s Fossil stainless-steel watch (right), bought on Carousell, cost $50 including repairs.

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF NGUWAR MYINT

Yet even thrifting cannot escape fast fashion, which Nguwar regularly spots on thrift store racks. She admits thrifting can also lead to overconsumption. “But I think the environmental impact is much more negligible compared with fast fashion.”

“Consumerism is part of the Singaporean identity,” she says. “Shopping is also a natural pastime, especially with the abundance of malls, which serve as a community hub in this humid climate.”

The appeal of physical stores is part of a wider trend a March 2026 Bloomberg report dubbed as “mallmaxxing”. Gen Z shoppers are increasingly treating malls as places to socialise in real life and take a break from the digital world, the report said.

Gill Capital’s Juneja sees the same pull. “Your friends can never be replaced by a chat online,” he says.

But he rejects the fast-fashion label for Subdued. “I wouldn’t call it fast fashion,” he says, adding that the brand limits stock to stay desirable. “Even if I know I can sell 500 pieces of angel wing hoodies, I would only order 100.”

An exclusive “Tropical Girl Singapore” T-shirt available for purchase only at Subdued's Bugis+ location. PHOTO: SUBDUED

An exclusive “Tropical Girl Singapore” T-shirt available for purchase only at Subdued's Bugis+ location.

The brand’s 2024 sustainability report, its first, paints a mixed picture. New designs are drawn up weekly and can go from idea to finished product in 60 days, but are first made in small test batches. Its unsold stock was below 8%, which the report describes as the industry’s standard threshold. Most of its clothes are made in Turkey (58%), with 37% made in Italy.

Still, sustainability rarely comes up in store.

When asked whether shoppers ask about it, he says: “My answer is no. Nobody asks us.”

Responsible shopping

All that shopping has to end up somewhere. Singapore generated 231,000 tonnes of textile and leather waste in 2025 but recycled just 3%, according to the National Environment Agency.

NAFA’s Tan suggests judging brands on a spectrum, by how fast and how much they produce.

Thrifting helps the environment because it extends the life of garments that already exist, Tan says. But it has its limits.

“Thrifting is not automatically sustainable. If consumers buy large quantities simply because the clothes are cheap, it can reproduce the same overconsumption habits associated with fast fashion.”

Instead, he suggests thinking in terms of cost per wear. “A $60 garment worn 30 times may offer better value than a $15 top worn twice.”

Rifah agrees that quitting fast fashion altogether is unlikely. “It’s not realistic for people our age to stop shopping fast fashion,” she says. “But we can learn to be more intentional.”

Get to know four labels young Singaporeans are flocking to:

Subdued’s second Singapore store at Bugis+. PHOTO: SUBDUED

Subdued’s second Singapore store at Bugis+.

Founded in Rome in the 1990s by Enrico Maria Sconciaforni and Alessandro Orsini, Subdued has targeted teenage girls from the start. It now has more than 130 stores worldwide, and its revenue rose 37.2% from 2023 to about €164 million (S$235 million) in 2024.

The label is known for laid-back, “cool girl” basics. Its angel-wing prints are its bestsellers in Singapore, alongside zip-up hoodies, crop tops and graphic tees in soft shades such as pearl grey, blue and white. New styles arrive almost every week, and the stores do not hold end-of-season sales.

In Singapore, it is run by Gill Capital, which says its customers are mainly aged 12 to 25.

Prices range from $15 for accessories to $129 for denim items such as jeans. The average item costs about $47, and most apparel comes in three sizes.

Info: B1-06 Wheelock Place, 501 Orchard Road, and 01-05 Bugis +, 201 Victoria Street

Italian entrepreneur Silvio Marsan and his son Stephan founded Brandy Melville in Italy in the early 1980s. The label became a teen phenomenon after opening its first US store in 2009 in Los Angeles’ Westwood , beside the University of California, Los Angeles campus .

Its California-inspired basics, such as tank tops, tees and sweatpants, are mostly made of cotton and largely sold in a single size, which the brand labels “one size fits most”. That sizing approach and the company’s culture were scrutinised in the 2024 HBO documentary Brandy Hellville & The Cult Of Fast Fashion.

The Brandy Melville store at Peranakan Place Complex. ST PHOTO: NG SOR LUAN

The Brandy Melville store at Peranakan Place Complex.

ST PHOTO: NG SOR LUAN

In Singapore, the brand closed its only outlet, at Ion Orchard, in 2020. It returned in August 2024 with a bigger two-storey boutique opposite somerset@313.

Prices range from about $25 to $45 for tops, and about $40 to $70 for bottoms.

Info: Peranakan Place Complex, 180 Orchard Road

New arrivals on Glassons’ Singapore online store, such as knit tops and cami tops, cost $29.99 each. PHOTO: GLASSONS

New arrivals on Glassons’ Singapore online store, such as knit tops and cami tops, cost $29.99 each.

Glassons began in 1918 as a mail-order clothing supplier in Christchurch, New Zealand. Today, its parent company, Hallenstein Glasson, runs about 130 stores across New Zealand and Australia. Sales at Glassons Australia rose 29% in its latest financial year, which ended in August 2026, helping lift group sales by 20%, Bloomberg reported.

The label is known for affordable, trend-led staples, from fitted basics and knits to denim and lace tops. Its store openings in Australia regularly draw crowds. In Sydney, hundreds of shoppers jostled at a recent opening of its Westfield Miranda store in August for giveaways promised to the first in line .

There is no permanent Singapore store yet. Its first local pop-up, Glassons Garden, was held at Maison Garden in Dempsey Hill in May 2026 to launch its Oasis Resort Collection.

Shoppers who registered online could try on its then-unreleased Oasis Resort Collection, with orders delivered to their homes after the event through Glassons’ Singapore online store. The pop-up doubled as a concept cafe, and guests received made-to-order florals, sodas and event-only shopping rewards.

Prices range from $9.99 for basic tops and singlets to $89.99 for tailored coats and jackets.

Info: Online at glassons.com/sg , with shipping to Singapore

Winning T-shirt designs from the November 2025 UTme! x ST180 Design Contest at Uniqlo at Orchard Central. ST PHOTO: NG SOR LUAN

Winning T-shirt designs from the November 2025 UTme! x ST180 Design Contest at Uniqlo at Orchard Central.

Owned by Japan’s Fast Retailing, Uniqlo needs no introduction. The brand opened its first store in Hiroshima in 1984. It arrived in Singapore in 2009 with a store at Tampines 1 and now has about 30 outlets islandwide.

Rather than chasing microtrends, it focuses on staples such as jeans, sweatpants and loungewear, and plans each season about a year ahead. Its AIRism line, made for hot weather, suits Singapore’s climate.

That everyday appeal resonates with the young. Uniqlo is Singapore Gen Z’s most-considered clothing brand, with 51% saying they would consider it the next time they shop for clothes, according to a YouGov survey.

Prices range from $4.90 for clearance tees to $249.40 for outerwear and select wool pieces.

Info: Outlets islandwide, including its global flagship store at Orchard Central, 181 Orchard Road

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