Seputeh’s Kedai Makanan dan Minuman Ah Gan is reborn as AG. Deli & Charcoal Grill, serving housemade charcuterie and steaks grilled over an open flame

After shuttering Kedai Makanan dan Minuman Ah Gan due to unsustainable business practices, chef Logan Terence Lopez has reopened his Seputeh location as AG.

Deli & Charcoal Grill.

The new venture pays homage to Ah Gan while focusing on a more personal culinary experience, with a menu that highlights Lopez's European training and specialization in meats.

Featuring dishes such as a Tajima Australian crossbred Wagyu steak, beef nasi ulam, and an extensive charcuterie board, the restaurant aims to offer a refined yet approachable dining atmosphere.

KUALA LUMPUR, Sept 25 — When chef/butcher/restaurateur Logan Terence Lopez converted his Seputeh central kitchen into Kedai Makanan dan Minuman Ah Gan last year, all he hoped to do was utilise the space more.

The plan was simple: noodles, rice, and old-school dishes like roti babi .

Then he started serving a garlic pork roulade that really took off.

Viral fame followed, along with the inevitable crash-and-burn of multiple slammed services. Business was good, if chaotic and unsustainable.

It had become a relentless slog, unrecognisable from what Ah Gan had started as.

So it was no surprise when Lopez shuttered Ah Gan early this year.

You could still go to his Lucky Garden stalwart, Wurst, for his unique sausages, steaks, chops and other speciality cuts.

But the roti babi and pork roulade were no more.

Now, he’s back: from the ashes of Ah Gan comes AG. Deli & Charcoal Grill, still in the same Seputeh shophouse, just spruced up a tad.

The name is a nod to Ah Gan, but the space is much more personal than anything Lopez has opened before, with memorabilia scattered throughout.

A barely used scooter, green and in extremely good condition, sits in the middle of the room.

A cork board in the corner holds a photo of Lopez with Alain Ducasse, taken when he worked at Aux Lyonnais, the legendary Lyonnaise bistro founded in Paris in 1890.

Ducasse acquired it in 2002, but sold it in 2025.

The menu is divided into three sections.

First, a loose collection of sharing starters reflective of Lopez’s European training, from a smoked burrata salad to stuffed piquillo peppers, tapas -style.

Next come the carbohydrates, including a prawn fideuà , the pasta equivalent to paella that also hails from Valencia, and a beef nasi ulam .

Then there is the grill, focusing on beef (Tajima Australian crossbred Wagyu, U.S. Wagyu), pork (Ibérico, Mangalica, Kurobuta), and lamb (Mottainai), along with a lone sole fish.

Lopez’s specialisation in meat means that, even though every other restaurant seems to have an in-house charcuterie program, the AG. charcuterie board (RM88) reads less like trend-hopping and more like a calling card.

It’s a selection of 90-day cured beef bresaola, coppa and truffle salami, and pork coppa, speck and salami, salt and fat melting on the tongue in equal measure.

Still, there’s no mistaking one meat for the other: the bovine flavour of beef is too recognisable, as is its relative leanness to pork.

Air-dried and salted, bresaola in particular is a firm, lean bite, in stark contrast to marbled pork coppa.

For the uninitiated, coppa is also known as gabagool , the beloved snack from The Sopranos .

It is traditionally taken from the neck and shoulder of the pig and dry-cured.

The beef version here, too, is slightly fatty. A few bites of the accompanying cornichons will see to that.

Piquillo peppers (RM35), stuffed with pork and sitting in a pool of olive oil infused with garlic, chilli and Sauternes, are about as comforting as tapas gets.

The piquillo pepper is sweet with little to no heat, and Sauternes, a French dessert wine, only adds to the fragrant sweetness of this dish.

The main event is a 200-gram steak of Tajima Australian crossbred Wagyu, taken from the short plate (RM60), a cut from below the ribs that is commonly used for short ribs and skirt steak.

It’s a lean, beefy cut, brilliant with nothing but ample salt, and very reminiscent of a hanger steak.

And though Lopez serves steaks at Wurst, they don’t get the same char and smoke as these do over an open flame.

On the side: a grilled chrysanthemum leaf, slightly bitter and better known to us as tong ho , and a sweet potato.

One of the outliers on an otherwise Eurocentric menu is the beef nasi ulam (RM45), replete with bunga kantan , kacang botol , serai and ulam raja .

Crispy bits of salted fish add a real salt-boost. It’s topped with roasted Wagyu burnt ends, but frankly, the beef is a bit of a filler.

It’s a shrewd way to use up trimmings, yet the nasi ulam is flavourful enough to stand on its own.

If it was nasi kerabu with some Wagyu lemak bakar , however... now that would be a different story.

Desserts and butchers aren’t typically associated with one another, but Wurst does a pretty good tiramisu .

So I was intrigued enough to try one of the three charmingly old-school desserts: the Eton mess (RM25).

It comes with canned mango in place of strawberries. It’s an admittedly low-effort concoction, yet meringue, whipped cream and sweet fruit, even at their worst, are solid. And this is far, far from bad.

At AG., Lopez is going back to his training roots.

Even as the menu appears “simple”, it’s a more personal, more complete restaurant than Ah Gan was ever meant to be.

Here’s hoping it sticks around longer.

AG. Deli & Charcoal Grill

11-1, Persiaran Syed Putra 3,

Taman Persiaran Desa, Kuala Lumpur.

Open Monday to Wednesday, 5.30 — 10.30pm

Instagram: @ agdeli_kl

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

* Follow us on Instagram @ eatdrinkmm for more food gems.

* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @ eatenlau for more charcuterie and steak.

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因不可持续的商业行为而关闭 Kedai Makanan dan Minuman Ah Gan 餐厅后，主厨 Logan Terence Lopez 以 AG 身份重新开设了 Seputeh 餐厅。

熟食店和炭烤店。

这家新餐厅向阿甘致敬，同时专注于更个性化的烹饪体验，其菜单突出了洛佩兹在欧洲接受的培训以及他在肉类方面的专长。

餐厅主打塔吉马澳洲杂交和牛牛排、牛肉饭和种类丰富的熟食拼盘等菜肴，旨在提供精致而又平易近人的用餐氛围。

吉隆坡，9 月 25 日——去年，当主厨兼屠夫兼餐厅老板 Logan Terence Lopez 将他的 Seputeh 中央厨房改造成 Kedai Makanan dan Minuman Ah Gan 时，他所希望的就是更多地利用空间。

计划很简单：面条、米饭和像烤肉卷饼这样的传统菜肴。

然后他开始供应蒜香猪肉卷，结果大受欢迎。

随之而来的是病毒式传播的爆红，以及多家服务商不可避免的倒闭和破产。生意虽然不错，但却混乱不堪，难以为继。

这变成了一场永无止境的苦战，与阿甘最初开始的时候已经判若两人。

所以，洛佩兹今年年初关闭阿甘餐厅也就不足为奇了。

你仍然可以去他位于 Lucky Garden 的老字号餐厅 Wurst，品尝他独具特色的香肠、牛排、肉排和其他特色肉块。

但是烤肉卷和猪肉卷已经没有了。

现在，他回来了：从 Ah Gan 的灰烬中诞生了 AG. Deli & Charcoal Grill，仍然在 Seputeh 的同一间店屋里，只是稍微装修了一下。

店名是为了纪念阿甘，但与洛佩兹之前开过的任何一家店相比，这家店都更具个人风格，店内到处散落着纪念品。

房间中央摆放着一辆几乎全新的绿色踏板车，车况极佳。

角落里的一块软木板上贴着一张洛佩兹与阿兰·杜卡斯的合影，照片拍摄于他在里昂传奇小酒馆 Aux Lyonnais 工作期间。Aux Lyonnais 于 1890 年在巴黎创立。

杜卡斯于 2002 年收购了它，但在 2025 年将其出售。

菜单分为三个部分。

首先是一系列适合分享的开胃菜，反映了洛佩兹在欧洲接受的训练，从烟熏布拉塔沙拉到酿皮基略辣椒，都是西班牙小吃风格。

接下来是碳水化合物，包括虾仁面条（一种类似西班牙海鲜饭的意大利面，也来自瓦伦西亚）和牛肉饭。

然后是烧烤，主打牛肉（但马澳洲杂交和牛、美国和牛）、猪肉（伊比利亚猪肉、曼加利察猪肉、黑豚猪肉）和羊肉（勿体内羊肉），以及一条鳎鱼。

洛佩兹专注于肉类，这意味着，尽管其他每家餐厅似乎都有自己的熟食店，但 AG. 的熟食拼盘（88 马币）与其说是追逐潮流，不如说是一张名片。

精选 90 天腌制的牛肉布雷萨奥拉、科帕火腿和松露萨拉米，以及猪肉科帕火腿、斯佩克火腿和萨拉米，咸味和油脂在舌尖完美融合。

不过，牛肉和猪肉是不会混淆的：牛肉的牛味太明显了，而且牛肉比猪肉更瘦。

风干并加盐的布雷萨奥拉牛肉，口感紧实精瘦，与大理石纹的科帕猪肉形成鲜明对比。

对于不熟悉的人来说，coppa 也被称为 gabagool，是《黑道家族》中备受喜爱的零食。

传统上，它是取自猪的颈部和肩部，然后进行风干腌制而成。

这里的牛肉版本也略微偏肥。不过，吃几口配菜的小黄瓜就能解决这个问题。

皮基略辣椒（35 令吉），里面塞满了猪肉，浸泡在浸有大蒜、辣椒和苏玳甜酒的橄榄油中，是令人感到无比舒适的西班牙小吃。

皮基略辣椒味道甜美，几乎没有辣味，而法国甜酒苏玳则更增添了这道菜的芬芳甜味。

主菜是一块 200 克的塔吉马澳洲杂交和牛牛排，取自牛小腿（RM60），这是肋骨下方的一块肉，通常用于制作牛小排和裙边牛排。

这是一块精瘦、肉质鲜嫩的肉，只需加足盐就能烹制出绝佳的美味，让人不禁想起牛排。

虽然洛佩兹在 Wurst 也供应牛排，但那些牛排没有像这些牛排一样，在明火上烤出焦香和烟熏味。

配菜：烤菊花叶（略带苦味，我们更熟悉它的另一个名字叫“冬瓜”）和红薯。

以欧洲为中心的菜单中的异常值之一是牛肉椰浆饭（RM45），里面充满了bunga kantan、kacang botol、serai和ulam Raja。

酥脆的咸鱼块增添了浓郁的咸味。上面铺着烤和牛焦香边角料，但说实话，牛肉只是用来凑数的。

这是利用边角料的巧妙方法，但椰浆饭本身味道鲜美，足以成为一道佳肴。

如果是椰浆饭配烤和牛……那就完全是另一回事了。

甜点和肉铺通常不会联系在一起，但 Wurst 的提拉米苏做得相当不错。

于是我被深深吸引，决定尝试一下这三款充满魅力的老式甜点之一：伊顿麦斯（25 马币）。

它用罐装芒果代替了草莓。诚然，这道甜点制作得比较简单，但蛋白酥皮、鲜奶油和甜水果的组合，即使是品质最差的，也还算不错。所以，这道甜点远称不上难吃。

在 AG，洛佩兹回归了他的训练根基。

即使菜单看起来很“简单”，但它比 Ah Gan 餐厅更有人情味，也更全面。

希望它能持续更久。

AG熟食店和炭烤店

11-1，Persiaran Syed Putra 3，

吉隆坡佩夏兰德萨花园。

周一至周三，下午5:30至晚上10:30营业

Instagram：@agdeli_kl

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